礁溪之心 The Landscape Crossing Path in Jiaoxi

礁溪之心

The Landscape Crossing Path in Jiaoxi

田中央聯合建築師事務所|Fieldoffice Architects

礁溪轉運站旅人廊道

原轉運站緊鄰省道與礁溪最大的公共溫泉公園,誇張起伏的地形雖可以感受山的走勢與溫泉的熱煙,但是帶著行李要搬上搬下階梯,而且視線阻隔容易迷路。於是我們從剖面下手,從轉運站下車就在三度空間中判斷出一條容易辨識的新捷徑,輕鬆直達溫泉旅館群。把大石頭運去附近的跑馬古道公園基地,小心挖填、取消階梯,主連通道儘量平順但仍保持微微的曲折起伏。重新安排計程車和機車的動線,避免不必要的人車交會。連通道補上綿延一百二十公尺長、相對水平的棚子,強化對丘陵地形的感知。順著寬敞、可以東張西望也可以拉行李的緩坡穿越林間劇場,一路上不必淋雨,一旁還有孩童玩耍的草坡與一個又一個熱氣蒸騰的泡腳池。有如林下斑光的情境吸引也導引來往旅人,進出礁溪不再只能沿著吵雜的省道。地形、公園與溫泉融為一個超大的自然轉運站,而上下車的月台是北口,南口出去就是主要旅館群;身臨谷地,水聲中,難忘溫暖山城的友善開放。下車後就身處自然之中,這裡是進入溫泉山城人人平等的登山口。

綠野溪廣場

從轉運站公園南口出來繼續往前,旅館大樓林立的健康大道端點,就是蜿蜒的湯圍溪;過了溪,經過一小段私有但通行開放的大巷子,礁溪最熱鬧、也最有文化厚度的「湯圍溝」就在眼前。之前受天橋、店家攤位及濃密植栽的阻擋,旅人以為要消費才能進入,大多繞道而行。這次局部拆除遮擋都市軸線的天橋,整理大道端點,形成自在的日常休閒廣場。以柔軟的線條貫穿老橋,保持護岸治水高程,但向外向下切出可以聽水聲的階梯座椅,修剪、調整一些水生植栽。一方面透視對岸,一方面以拆掉障礙物後的開闊迎接不同步調的往來民眾。幾隻好像會走路的街燈加強尺度的魔幻,這裡是第二個聽得到水聲的時空旋轉門,跨溪,銜接上歷史熱區。節慶時,可臨時搭起路徑上的舞台;這綠色野溪旁的小小廣場,是穿著拖鞋從新世界晃進晃出溫泉鄉的時空大廳。

跑馬古道公園

此處原稱「明德訓練班」。一片將天地自然帶進城市的森林公園,清理出大器的空,山勢隨著樹林滲入都市,心願是還給礁溪一個能看見山的地方。利用現地的土方平衡,重新讓亙古的地質、地形成為主角,溫柔而堅定的覆蓋(故意有時比屋頂還高),撫慰威權時代的傷痛,也提醒軍事尚未進入之前,大地會自我療癒的起伏。將圍了幾十年的管訓營區高牆切低,空間釋放,變成所有人都可以自由詮釋的林間空地,也縫合山與居民,被隔開多年的自我遺忘。不斷思索著如何將自由的空間「拆」出來,陽光終將進入,卻也留下一點秘密作為見證。減少尺度過長、結構品質不良的營舍,連續切穿、分不出來是大樹還是框架;讓視線穿越在樹林與營舍遺構之間,一明一暗,體驗曾經嚴肅的秩序,也體驗被約束的自然的不自然。當人們重新記得這城就在山邊,就有機會知道保持這片空白的重要,就不會糊裡糊塗同意透過各種都市計劃手段(比明德還明德),讓這裡再蓋起礁溪最不缺乏的高樓。不斷斜插的自由步道突破筆直的格局,讓想像能穿梭在抽象框架的新生意義與在地綠樹間,隨處都是劇場。聲東擊西到處保留生猛的地被與自生林,禮堂、餐廳、中山室……經過拆切減量,留下幽默的角隅,當落山風來時化身為數十人到數千人大大小小臨時舞台的支撐。從山邊望向社區,營舍牆面洗成深灰色將量體隱身在林蔭之中,只見綠意向都市蔓延,最南邊自然成為社區的一部分。回望山林,留下的營舍部件,洗成水平大方的白色,嵌入地景之中,隱喻壓不扁的青春挺拔,也藉由參考線純真無奈的標定,感知自然、山勢的變化。從轉運站搬來順勢棲居在坡地的巨石,像是古老山靈的化身;在尋覓祂們來向的過程中,終於看見礁溪山的壯闊。祈禱留下不多的室內空間能被溫柔對待,經過多年,走向奉獻而非掠奪,該有多美。

(封面為跑馬古道公園,下圖一為礁溪轉運站旅人廊道,下圖二為綠野溪廣場。)

Traveler Corridor of Jiaoxi Bus Station

The original bus station is adjacent to the provincial highway and Jiaoxi’s largest public hot spring park. The undulating terrain in the park allows one to feel the trend of the mountains and the smoke from the hot springs. Making people want to get off the bus and take a shortcut straight to the hot spring hotel. We modified the undulating terrain and steps to avoid the unnecessary intersection of pedestrians and vehicles. With a length of 120 meters, the relatively horizontal canopy we designed shelters the rain and strengthens the perception of topographical changes. Pedestrians can finally pull their luggage through the gentle slope. Passing through the forest theater, children play on grassy slopes and the steaming smoke from foot bath. With a spacious pavement that visitors can walk around, pedestrians are guided by the sunlight passing through woods. Entering the city via noisy provincial highway is no longer the only option. With hotels and bus station at corridors’ south and north entrance, the terrain, park and foot bath are all joined into a large station. The experience of being in the valley, surrounded by the sound of greenery, the comfortable feeling of submerging in nature, it’s an unforgettable characteristics of the temperate tropical mountain city. Getting off the bus in the park leads to the entrance to the mountain city of hot springs.

Green Creek Plaza

Exiting from the south exit of the bus station park, at the end of the Jiankang Road lined with new hotel buildings is the winding Tangwei River. Crossing the stream through a private but wide alley, one reaches Jiaoxi’s most lively and historical location, Tangweigou. Blocked by footbridge, stalls, and dense plants, most travelers are discouraged from entry. In our intervention the footbridge that blocked the urban axis has been partially demolished. The end of Jiankang Road has been transformed into a new square, connecting the lively area across the river. Without changing the elevation of the levee, our design transformed the levee slope into a series of stepped seats and pruning plants, reducing the sense of closure of the square. This allows views to the opposite side of the river while welcoming citizens with a more open square. During festivals, it can also be used as a stage venue for religious parade. This square next to the green creek is the space time hall where New World walks into the hot spring township.

Paoma Historic Trail Park

A forest park that brings natural into the city. The mountains seep into the city along the woods, wishing to give Jiaoxi a location with mountain view. We are constantly thinking about dismantling buildings to create nice spaces, lowering walls that enclose facilities for decades, and turn them into a large green space that everyone can use freely. We are reducing large scale and poor structural barracks where walls are cut through continuously and big trees are preserved. Letting vistas pass through the woods and the remaining barracks, one experiences the order and the different aspects of nature. The trails cut through the camp, allowing activities to alternate between the barracks and the courtyards. And outdoor theaters can form anywhere. Several forests are preserved, and the auditorium ruin has been cut and reduced in size. The stage can also be modified for various functions. Dark gray walls of the barracks on the community side hide the building mass in the shade of the trees. Only the greenery can be seen spreading into the city. Looking back at the mountains and forests, the white flat volume is embedded in the landscape. One can still feel the scars of the past authoritarian period. But one can also perceive the natural changes through the contrast of man-made objects. By balancing the earthwork, we restored the military camp to its natural undulating terrain and open up spaces for great mountain view. The boulders that live on the slopes are like the incarnations of ancient mountain spirits. While searching for their coming, we can looked up to Jiaoxi Mountain freely. Now everyone can enjoy the precious sky of Jiaoxi.